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Views: 0 Author: Site Editor Publish Time: 2025-08-20 Origin: Site
Expanded metal is everywhere—from walkways to fences—but do you know how it’s measured? Accurate sizing ensures safety and performance across materials like steel, stainless steel, aluminum, and galvanized metal.
In this post, you’ll learn the key steps to measure raised and flattened mesh correctly.
Expanded metal is made by cutting and stretching a solid metal sheet into a pattern of diamond-shaped openings. This process is often called "slit and stretch." It turns a flat piece of metal into a mesh that’s stronger and lighter than many alternatives. What’s neat is that the process uses the entire sheet, which means there’s almost no waste.
Unlike sheet metal, which blocks airflow and needs extra cuts or holes, expanded metal lets air, light, and liquid pass through. Compared to wire mesh, it offers more strength and needs fewer welds. That makes it great for everything from industrial baskets to architectural panels.
You’ll often see expanded metal made from stainless steel, aluminum, carbon steel, or even galvanized steel. These materials are chosen for their balance of strength, weight, and durability. Stainless steel, for example, resists corrosion and works well in outdoor or food-related environments.
Expanded metal has some solid advantages. It holds up under pressure, drains well, and keeps things ventilated. Since it doesn’t need as much material as solid metal, it also saves on cost. Whether you're building walkways, filters, security fences, or decorative screens, this mesh brings a mix of toughness, openness, and efficiency.
Getting the right measurements for expanded metal isn't just about fitting a panel into place. It's about safety, durability, and getting the job done right the first time. If the mesh is too thin or the pattern too wide, it might fail under load or not deliver the performance you expect. That matters a lot in places like walkways or platforms where people rely on it for support.
Designers also count on accurate specs to meet both visual and structural goals. In architecture, where expanded metal might be used for a screen or facade, the mesh must align with the design's spacing, light flow, and weight limits. If you skip those details, the final structure might not hold up or look as planned.
Small mistakes can get expensive fast. Think of a security fence that doesn't meet strength specs or a cladding panel that doesn't line up. Replacements waste both time and material. So whether you're working with stainless steel mesh for corrosion resistance or aluminum for light weight, every measurement counts.
The way thickness, mesh pattern, and strand size all work together can’t be ignored. A thicker sheet boosts strength but also adds weight. Larger openings reduce material use but weaken the structure. So when choosing a mesh, we have to balance all three based on what the application needs.
Raised expanded metal comes straight from the expansion process. It has a bold, angular look because the strands are lifted above the sheet's surface. You’ll notice sharp diamond-shaped openings that give it both structure and texture. These raised sections add more than just visual interest. They improve traction and make the surface less slippery underfoot.
Because of its shape, it also helps guide airflow, light, and even water. That makes it useful where both ventilation and grip matter. We see it a lot in walkways, loading ramps, fencing panels, and even behind plaster in wall finishes. It's lightweight but strong, and since it uses the full sheet without waste, it's also pretty efficient.
Flattened expanded metal goes through one more step. After expansion, it's rolled flat under heavy pressure. That changes the texture completely. Now, instead of those raised strands, the mesh is smooth and two-dimensional. It's easier to stack, ship, and handle, especially for tight-fitting applications.
Rolling it down reduces its thickness slightly—usually by around ten to twenty percent. But it keeps the strength while giving you a more even finish. This version of the mesh works best where snagging could be a problem or where a flat surface is needed. Think air filters, machine guards, display panels, and room dividers.
When you're dealing with raised mesh, you’ll need to focus on a few specific terms. First, there’s longway pitch, or LWP. That’s the horizontal distance from the center of one knuckle to the next. It’s based on the tooling used during expansion. Then there’s shortway pitch, or SWP. This one is vertical and depends on how far the metal stretches during processing.
Strand width, or SWDT, is how wide each metal strip becomes after expanding. It’s easy to spot but important to measure accurately. Then comes strand thickness, or STK. This is the thickness of the original sheet before expansion. It doesn’t change during stretching, but don’t confuse it with the mesh’s total height. In some cases, raised mesh height can reach up to twice the strand width.
Now, flattened mesh has a different language. Instead of pitch, we talk about apertures. Longway aperture, or LWA, measures the inner opening length, left to right. Shortway aperture, or SWA, goes top to bottom. These are measured between points inside the diamond-shaped holes, not across the strand edges.
Strand width and thickness still apply here, but there’s a catch. After flattening, the mesh usually thins out by ten to twenty percent. The flattening process compresses the original raised shape into a smoother, flatter finish. You’ll need to factor in this change when checking final specs.
First, figure out if your mesh is raised or flattened. Look at the texture and the strand height.
Use a ruler or caliper to measure either the pitch or aperture. Stay consistent—center to center for raised, inside edge to edge for flattened.
Measure strand width and thickness. Strand width is visible between the openings. Strand thickness should match the base material used.
Don’t forget about orientation. Check if the diamonds run longways or shortways across the sheet. This is called longway mesh and shortway mesh, and it affects how the mesh performs.
When we talk about orientation, we're really looking at how the diamond shapes sit across the sheet. LWM stands for longway mesh. It's the direction that runs parallel to the longest side of each diamond. SWM, or shortway mesh, runs across the shorter side. Even if a sheet has the same outer size, changing the mesh direction can make a big difference in how it behaves.
Think about walking on a metal ramp. If the diamonds run side to side, your shoes grip better. That’s why installers usually place the LWM across the walking path. On a fence, it’s the opposite. When the diamonds point up, it becomes harder to climb. So in that case, SWM runs horizontal while LWM runs vertical. This choice affects not just safety, but also how secure and practical the structure is.
Let’s say we have a mesh sheet measuring 2440 by 1220 millimeters. If 2440mm is the LWM, then the diamonds stretch along the longer side of the sheet. Flip the orientation and make 1220mm the LWM, and now the diamonds rotate. Even though the sheet’s size stays the same, its feel, strength, and look will change depending on this layout.
Always decide which way the diamonds need to run before placing your order. Think about the job. Is it for grip, airflow, or visual design? Walkways often need wide grip, so lay the diamonds left to right. Fencing prefers tall diamonds that discourage climbing, so run them up and down. And if you're unsure, sketch it out. A clear layout can avoid costly mistakes later.
Thickness in expanded metal usually refers to the base metal sheet before it’s expanded. We measure it in millimeters or inches, depending on the region. This original thickness, often called strand thickness, stays the same for raised mesh but gets reduced when the sheet is flattened. Flattening presses the material flat, which can reduce its depth by ten to twenty percent.
Choosing the right thickness depends on how the mesh will be used. For walkways or platforms, the metal has to carry weight, so we go thicker—usually between 3 and 6 millimeters. In contrast, for building facades, where design and weight matter more than strength, 1.5 to 3 millimeters often works just fine.
Material also plays a big role. Steel has more strength than aluminum, so we might get away with thinner strands in some cases. Stainless steel adds corrosion resistance, making it better outdoors or in humid environments. That’s where the right combination of thickness and material matters most.
Mesh size and pattern can shift your decision too. A large diamond pattern may require thicker strands to keep the sheet rigid. Smaller mesh sizes can stay thinner but still perform well. And don’t forget about the environment. Exposure to weather, chemicals, or high heat might mean you need a thicker sheet just to ensure long-term durability.
Here’s a quick guide to help:
| Application | Recommended Thickness |
|---|---|
| Walkways/platforms | 3–6 mm |
| Facades | 1.5–3 mm |
| Filters/screens | 0.8–2 mm |
| Fencing/enclosures | 2–4 mm |
When you first look at expanded metal specs, the numbers might seem confusing. One common format shows something like 1/2-13 or 3/4-16. That first number usually tells you the short way of the opening, also called SWOD. It’s the narrowest part of the diamond pattern. The second number often refers to the gauge or weight per 100 square feet.
Charts make this easier. Most expanded metal sheets are listed in a size chart before purchase. These charts include a few key details that help you compare options and pick the right one.
| Specification | What It Tells You |
|---|---|
| Style | Based on material and overall mesh shape |
| Weight (lb/ft²) | How much one square foot of mesh weighs |
| Opening Size | Measured across the SWOD and LWD (diagonals) |
| Strand Size | Width and thickness of each metal strip |
| Percent Open Area | How much of the sheet is open vs. solid |
Let’s say we’re reading a chart and it shows a mesh with a SWOD of 0.5 inches and a gauge of 13. That means the diamond’s short way opening is about half an inch wide, and the strands are relatively thick. If the open area is 60 percent, that tells us airflow and light pass through most of the sheet.
If you spot a style marked “A-3/4-9,” the letter might indicate the material, like A for aluminum. The 3/4 means the long way of the diamond is three-quarters of an inch. The 9 points to the gauge, which relates to the strand thickness. When comparing two styles side by side, check the strand size. Thicker strands will carry more load but reduce open space.
Using these details, we can quickly figure out which expanded metal sheet works for our job—whether we’re building a security gate or lining a ventilation system.
Expanded metal is a go-to choice for high-traffic surfaces. Walkways and catwalks need materials that grip well and hold weight without sagging. The raised type works great here, since the angled strands improve traction. But if the mesh is too thin or the openings are too wide, it could bend or fail. That’s why measuring strand thickness and pitch really matters in these setups.
In factories or workshops, machine guards made from expanded metal protect workers while keeping equipment visible. These panels must have the right aperture size to block fingers or tools from getting inside. If the opening is too large, it's not safe. Get the SWA and LWA wrong, and you risk failing a safety inspection. That’s where knowing your mesh specs saves time and ensures compliance.
Expanded metal fencing appears in schools, subways, and industrial zones. Its strength comes from solid construction—no welding, no seams. But orientation is key. When the diamonds point up, it’s harder to climb. Mesh size affects visibility and airflow too. For reliable security, the strand thickness and opening width have to match the intended level of protection.
Expanded metal isn’t just functional—it looks sharp too. Architects use it for sunshades, wall panels, and interior screens. Here, consistent aperture sizes and a clean finish matter most. A mismatch in LWD or SWD can throw off symmetry or light patterns. Even a minor error in measurement can ruin the visual design. For custom aesthetics, precise spec control is essential.
In places like plating shops or paint booths, expanded metal baskets carry parts through chemical processes. These need high durability and open space for drainage. If the strands are too narrow or thin, the basket won't last. On the other hand, openings that are too small might slow drainage. By checking SWDT, STK, and open area, we get the best balance.
Expanded metal also strengthens materials like plaster, concrete, or resin-based composites. In this case, the mesh is embedded inside. It must match the mold or form precisely. If the measurements are off, the reinforcement won’t be even. Uneven distribution can weaken the structure. So each detail—from strand width to pitch—must be checked before mixing or pouring begins.
Measuring expanded metal the right way helps keep projects safe, strong, and efficient. By knowing the difference between raised and flattened mesh, and understanding terms like strand width and pitch, we can avoid mistakes that waste time and money. Whether for walkways, fences, or facades, learning to measure thickness and mesh size means picking the best material every time.
Raised mesh has angled strands for grip and texture, while flattened mesh is smooth and 10–20% thinner after rolling.
Use a caliper to measure the base material thickness before expansion. For flattened mesh, account for the reduced height.
Orientation affects performance. For example, horizontal diamonds improve walkway grip, while vertical ones deter fence climbing.
You can use a ruler or caliper to measure strand width, pitch, aperture size, and thickness depending on the mesh type.
It shows how much of the sheet is open versus solid, which affects airflow, drainage, and weight.
