stainless steel stair guard rail build & installation

by:ChangZeng     2020-07-06
Welcome to the Instructure community. Hello everyone.
Here is my 16 th instruction manual, in which I will be building stairs hand/guardrail for my newly built superstructure.
This is one of the biggest projects I have ever done and it took nearly three weeks to build.
I saw a wide variety of stair railings online and in my city, they are usually simple assembly type and also easy to install with the help of fasteners, and the welding work required to build this type of railing is very limited.
I want to make a unique stair railing for my upper level, but there are a lot of challenges with this project.
First of all, my stairs are not straight, they are L-shaped.
Second, my stairs are made of marble and granite, hard to drill and crisp.
Third, I have never welded any steel before, and the thickness of the steel is too thin for the welds I realized when I started welding.
Fourth, the workplace is not safe for work because the marble is slippery & many times I have to go up and down stairs & there are also a lot of tools on my stairs to weld in very uncomfortable positions
V. welding (308 weld rod)
Very dangerous to steel (Grade 202).
When the weld path cools, the slag on the weld will pop up like a bullet, and if it falls on your skin, it will leave a very bad burn mark.
I have attached the GIF image that pops up when the pillar part is welded.
Sixth, the weather is not conducive to work.
I made this railing this summer and I have to be at 47-
The temperature of degrees Celsius and a lot of sweat dripping from my body.
But, in the end, my patience, skill and hard work turned the simple steel pipe into a beautiful structure & I was very satisfied with my work.
If you like this overall build and have some suggestions for improvement then don\'t forget to leave your feedback in the comments section below.
Here is a list of the tools we use in this build :-1.
Electric welding machine with speed regulator angle grinder drilling machine cut saw 5.
Center punching speed square tape measure hammer table saw Mitter saw plate turning plate (60,80,120 grit)
Scottish wheel polishing wheel with polished paste stone grinding Diamond pad (
100, 200, 400, 800, 1200, 1500, 2000, sand)Sandpaper (
Sand 60, 80, 120, 220, 320, 400)Custom CNC20. 90-
V bit for engraving digital cursor calipers cotton scrap and rags20.
Automatic marking welding fixture C fixture for hot blower Square
I want my own design from this building. Dark welding helmet welding gloves paint mask diamond core drill bit stair guardrail design.
I don\'t want to install anything pre-built, just install it on the stairs.
When I went to the local store to buy the material for this building, I saw the already made pillars and pillars on the stairs, some looked good and some looked too cheap, but that\'s enough to let me know what kind of pillar and pillar design my building needs.
I want to have a wow factor on my guardrail and also want to see them in the dark.
That\'s why I chose this design.
For the main column of the guardrail, I select the steel section of the top and bottom covering the 4 \"square plate and choose cnc v-between them-
Add the engraved plugin.
The middle pillar used to support the handrail part and make it more robust.
Since I didn\'t install the pillars at every step, I installed them between these intermediate pillars.
For the braces design, I will build a different type of braces before that because I was not familiar with the design at the time.
Once I understood the design, I changed my plan because it was much more difficult to do it with arc welding.
It\'s too hard for me to weld wall metal with an arc to make a clean weld.
I built more projects after that, but I think if you do the same thing with MIG or TIG welding, you will get better results.
Do not use arc welding if you want cleaner results.
Because it was quite a long time.
Consumption builds I divide this instructures into two parts, and here are the steps taken to build them. 1.
Two main postal buildings.
Material cutting.
Remove burrsIII.
InsertsIV who cut firewood.
CNC machining wooden plug-in. V.
Fill them with resin and organize them into boxes-like structure. VI.
Weld parts to make postsVII.
Grind and finish.
2 after installation.
The production and installation of the column, the installation of the Middle support armrest.
Cutting materials.
Welding workpiece.
PillarsIV that makes expansion.
Drill holes.
Install pillarsVI.
Install handrailVII.
Install in the middle bracesVIII.
Manufacturing CNC blades and machining with 90-deg V-bitIX.
Fill the plugin with glow in dark resinX.
Polishing, dyeing and polishing of CNC plug-ins. XI.
Install CNC plug-in.
Complete everything because the complete building is made of stainless steel and these guardrails are not exposed to external weather, which is why I decided to build this project with SS 202 grade steel.
Although it has less resistance to moisture.
This will also reduce the cost of your project to a certain extent.
If you are doing something for external purposes, it is highly recommended to build your project with ss 302 as it has a strong resistance to moisture. I.
8 \"length 4 pcs of 3\" X 3 \"II.
1 \"X 1\" 20 \"of stainless steel angleIII 8 long.
4 \"X4\" thick stainless steel 8 piecessteel plateIV.
20 \"long\" thick 8 pieces canadine pine woodV.
4 \"dia phenylsVI 2 sets.
2 Bars 4 \"long, 10mm in diameter.
One suggestion is that if you guys use a Chop saw with a cutting disc installed, be sure not to put too much pressure on the chop saw when cutting large pieces.
If you do, you will notice that your cut-out is not square.
This may or may not happen to you, but in my case it happens every time.
I think this is due to the slight flexibility of the cutting wheel.
To ensure that your workpiece is cut in a square, make sure to mark at least two sides of the workpiece, one parallel to the blade and the other perpendicular to the blade, and make sure that you can see both of them.
In order to get a clean welded joint, I use 120 of the sand baffle wheel to remove burrs on each piece of steel.
With the help of the same flap wheel, I tilted the edge a bit to penetrate into the joint well.
In 4 \"X4\" I use the flap wheel in the angle mill to slightly fillet to remove any sharp edges in my build.
After that, with the help of the grinder and Scotch whisky, I gently grind the angles because they have some rough texture on them.
After completing the work, the parts can be welded.
Because I don\'t have thick wood, but I have 1 thick pine, I choose this wood.
First, I cut the wide plate into the width I need.
The work is carried out on my desk.
After I got the stock of the required width, I cut it in half from the center of the thickness \"thick.
By doing so, I got 2 from a thick piece of wood.
After getting all the parts, I first polished each piece with 60 grits and then each piece with a 120 grit track Sander.
After getting 8 20 \"long blocks of wood, I went to my CNC.
Because I didn\'t have enough width, I chose the simple vine design.
On CAD, I followed the vines image and then processed the wood using Mach 3.
When I was working on the wood, I chose the cone engraving bit.
My plan is to fill the processing area with resin.
I processed the area into a depth of 4mm.
These engraving bits provide more detail than the final grind.
You can also use v. carving bits.
These bits implement more complex designs and reduce depth.
Since I have to work on the same design over and over again, I don\'t want to mess up my work and that\'s why I made this fixture.
I screwed a few pieces of scrap wood on the bed perpendicular to the bed and screwed two toggle clips on the other side.
By doing so, no marks will be left on the workpiece and I don\'t need to align my work with the bed many times.
Just insert these parts into the machining area and start the machine.
Jig made my work much easier.
After preparing my machined part, I prepared it for the next step, that is, filling the machined area with resin.
Before pouring the resin into the processing area, I applied masking tape around the workpiece and kept the processing area uncovered.
I applied tape to these plugins during the machining process, but that thing didn\'t work.
In the process of processing, the masking tape has been falling off.
The effect of using vinyl is better than masking tape, which is good.
After that, I mixed the resin together and mixed some colored dyes in it.
It is then evenly distributed over the processing area.
After 24 hours of healing it, I thoroughly polished it with 120 sandpaper and cleaned the left --
Over slag with acetone
After cleaning everything, I got the wood dirty. I gave it two-toned color.
I chose a box of walnuts and yellow stains.
I made a box after dyeinglike shape.
I stick the pieces together and screw them together to make it strong, and once the glue is dry I remove the screws and bypass the edges with a round over bit.
Because the angle has a small amount of curvature in the inner part, that\'s why this box needs this circular degree.
You can also round it with a block plane.
Just need a small chamfer on all sides.
After that, I applied two layers of varnish on it.
Since I have to install these pillars on the surface, I need something to grab the pillars on the floor so that they can stand straight on the ground.
For this I cut 2 4 \"long threaded bars with a diameter of 10mm.
I am drilling on 4 \"X4\" square plates with the help of carbide drill bit
The speed steel drill bit does not work on this, then insert the threaded rod into the hole and weld it with a plate.
I then weld these parts with 3 \"X3\" square tubes of two columns so I can fix it on the floor.
First of all, when I finish the weld it looks good, I nail it on all 4 sides.
I did not do the complete welding.
I just weld 2/3 of the weld on each side.
After finishing the block section with the help of the clip, I wrapped the angle around all 4 corners of the wooden box and made sure it was completely square.
To prevent the wood from burning, I applied tape to the uncovered part of the wood so that during the welding process, it had little protection for the welding spatula.
I also saved a spray bottle full of water and I used it to keep the wood moist so it doesn\'t burn during welding, which helps me a lot.
Since I am using arc welding, a lot of grinding work is required for this article.
During the grinding work, I found some slag areas that were not properly welded.
I need to re-weld that area in this case.
This is part of my struggle.
Because of my first project, some of the welding joints that look good from the outside after grinding have some small holes behind them.
These welds can be used for carbon steel, but in the case of stainless steel, completely clean and shiny welds should be required.
For the first grind, I grind everything with a thick wheel, and then I move one to 60 sand wheels.
I don\'t use it too much, just use it very rarely to minimize scratches from the first wheel I use.
If you grind randomly, make sure to always grind in one direction, some scratches will be left out and it\'s hard to remove.
After that, I peeled 120 with a flap.
I grind with Scottish wheels when the scratches are completely reduced.
Finally, with the help of the green compound and the buff wheel, all the welded joints were illuminated and the Post was completed.
Because my stairs are 42 \"wide, I have to keep the same distance on the whole stairs.
I then measure the distance from 39 \"on the wall side, mark the position, and then place the square along the point I marked as 6\" from the riser (
The vertical part of the stairs is called the riser, and the lateral part where we put our feet on it is called the pedal).
By doing so, I get the exact location where I need to drill holes.
Since I have a marble floor and I don\'t want to create cracks on the surface, I used diamond drill bits on the grinder instead of drilling holes on the surface.
I used enough water while drilling to keep the drill bit cool.
Because the bit time is not long, I finished the remaining drilling with a hammer drill bit.
After that, I used two-
Partially anchor grouting and then insert the column anchor into the hole.
To make it perfect, I applied some support from both sides.
The anchor grouting is completely dry for an hour, making the pillars very strong.
After the Post was completely dry, I completely polished the top surface because it was hard to clean the area after welding, and then I marked the center at the top of the post, and welding a bolt on it is the ball.
First I nailed it to the plate to weld it and then made it very straight.
Then I finish the welding and grind the excess part a little bit.
Then I insert the cover plate and screw the ball onto that Bolt.
Cutting material :-
After completing the first part, I entered the second stage, that is, the material for cutting the pillars.
Although there is a lot of pre-
There are a lot of building pillars on the market, but they are thin and look like a tube.
But I want something different.
Instead of making a simple pipe, I did a design with a rectangular shape in the center and a rectangular pipe attached to the top and bottom.
In the rectangular piece, I installed the CNC plug-in that fills the glow with dark resin so that this thing can also be seen in the dark.
The total height of the pillar is 36 \"long and is divided into three parts :-
The top block of the bottom block of the rectangular section does not install the pillars at each step and decides to build 5 pillars after each two steps away.
For the joint of the pipe, I choose the oblique joint.
Here is the material cutting list I used to make the stair post.
· 20 \"long 1\" X2 \"rectangular tubes 10.
9 \"long 1\" X2 \"rectangular tube 10 pcs.
8 \"long 1\" X2 \"rectangular tube 10 pcs.
After that, I clipped the parts onto the work table I made temporarily, firmly onto my desk, and checked the square of my rectangle with the help of speed square.
Before that, I removed those pieces from burrs.
After that, I weld all four sides of the rectangle and repeat the process on the other side.
Then I re-check my rectangle and finish my welding.
As you can see in the video, I will not pass the welding because the material is not thick in wall thickness. It\'s almost 1. 76mm thick.
If I\'m going to do penetration welding, the end result is the air hole.
That\'s why I only do sticky welding.
After that, I ground off the extra material.
I then marked the center of the rectangle and the pipe I needed to connect to the shorter side of the rectangle.
After that, I clip these onto my workbench and check the square and sticky welding of the workpiece.
I then complete these welded joints to create the perfect seamless joints.
I repeated the process five times and made 5 columns of similar size.
After making the pillars for the stairs, I need something that I can install to the stairs with the help.
Since there are no suitable fasteners for this kind of work, I have to build them as well.
For the anchor, I chose a gentle steel bar 6mm thick and 40mm wide.
At this point, I mark after every 2 \"and then mark the center where I need to practice.
I then drill the pilot hole with 4mm bit first and then zoom in with 10mm bit.
After that, I cut the bar into two pieces.
I then cut the bar to 4 \"long.
I don\'t have much depth because I have folded the stairs.
The overall step thickness is 5 \".
If your steps are thicker than bigger anchors.
I then insert the nut into the bolt just to give support to the plate I want to weld with the bolt.
Therefore, during the welding process, this provides the surface on which the workpiece is fixed.
After the welding is done, I remove the nut from the bolt because the NUT is no longer needed.
After making the anchor, I insert the cover plate into the post and then connect the anchor piece to the post by keeping the threaded piece on the outside.
Nail welding before I finish the welding joint.
By doing so, these pillars can be installed.
After making these pillars, it\'s time to install them.
Because I will install them after every two steps away.
The width of my step is the 41 \"have\" molded protruding part.
That\'s why I\'m drilling these holes from this end.
I then find the center of the tread and mark the point I need to drill, 6 \"from the riser \".
After that, start drilling with the help of a diamond drill bit attached to the grinder.
To cool down during the drilling, I kept spraying water on the drill bit.
I repeat this process for all the remaining steps.
Then with the help of the hammer drill, I increased the depth of the hole a little because my diamond drill was not long enough.
After drilling, I cleaned all the holes with the help of compressed air to remove all the loose dirt in the holes.
If you don\'t have an air compressor then you can also use a vacuum cleaner.
Some grouting also has the properties of curing to water, so if you don\'t have any grouting, then by pumping water into the hole, you can remove all loose sand particles from the hole.
I have cut off the armrest and use it to keep my post in a straight position until the mud dries.
Then I mixed the anchor mud and filled the hole one by one.
An hour later, I installed another pillar.
Since I have cut the handrails, but here is some information about this.
For this I used 1 \"x1\" stainless steel pipe as a handrail.
I measure the distance from the top post to the bottom Post to have a turn.
I kept the length a bit long because I wasn\'t sure.
After that, I clamp the railings along these pillars and make sure that the railings are parallel to the stair angle.
I clamp the tube on the top column, measure the distance from the bottom of the step, then go to the last step and keep the same distance.
By doing so, the handrails are parallel to the steps of the stairs.
Then I marked the area I needed to cut so I could put these railings on the post.
Although the incision angle is 56 degrees.
After marking these lines, I cut the top of the post with an angle grinder and cleaned them with the help of the flap wheel.
I then clipped the handrail to the post and connected the handrail pipe to the post, I marked the area I needed to cut in order to weld with The Post.
By putting the railroad at the top of the post, I marked a straight line at its end with the help of the spiritual level.
Then I cut it with the help of the cutting wheel.
After a little cleaning, I put it on the post with the help of the clip and connected it to the post.
Then I stick them together and Weld, after fixing it, remove the clip properly and finish the welding.
Then clean the welding joint with the help of the flap wheel.
This is the first part of the armrest, the next part is L-shape portion.
For this I cut it at a 14 degree angle.
To keep it level, I welded that piece and went ahead with my arm rest.
After a small distance, there is a turn on the stairs, which is why the guardrail also needs to turn at 90 degrees.
From the Bottom post, I marked the center position on this top armrest and marked the position where I needed to cut the diagonal angle.
Then I weld them with tape and make them permanent.
Generally, try this method.
Because sometimes the working position is slightly different from the actual design.
Then I put L-
Shape of 38 ° angle.
After that, I installed the bottom rail tube.
The pillar needs to be cut and connected at an angle of 55 ° to make it parallel to the part of the stair slope.
I also cut the top of the bottom post so that the pipe can be parked on it.
This post is a little shorter than the rest of the post, which I think is due to the clumsy design of the stairs.
I then weld first and then finish the weld to make it permanent.
After that, I clipped that piece between that gap and marked the lines I needed to cut to make it fit those gaps.
After making a little adjustment, I successfully installed this part easily and finished the handrails.
Then I do the grinding and finishing to make the joints smooth.
Because I install pillars every two steps, there are many gaps on the guardrail.
To be safer, I plan to install support between each post by keeping the same slope.
Then I marked the point on the post where I was going to start these braces.
These are made of \"X\" square tubes.
I measure the equal distance from the top of the railway to the post, about 10 \"down from the top of the railway.
Then, with the help of a piece of 2 \"long waste pipe, I marked the equal distance on the post and then measured the distance with a tape measure.
I then cut one side of the pipe at a 56 degree angle, then mark the total length of the pipe and cut the alternative angle at the other end to the marked area.
Then I put it on the marker point and the sticky weld.
Repeat the process for another one.
I installed all the braces by executing the same program.
I didn\'t cut the material at the same time because at some point the length was slightly different.
I measure the distance and cut the pipes I need to weld between these pillars.
The braces at the bottom are very different because the situation is very different from the rest.
On the one hand, I can easily weld it with a post, but on the other hand, there is woos, so that\'s why I adopt this design, I measure the distance and cut it in equal length, then cut at 56 degrees angle on both sides.
After that, I cut a stainless steel rod with a length of 10 and then drilled and sank the head so that the screws could be inserted into it.
Then I weld these parts with that stick by keeping the same distance of 2 \"and screw it to the post, on the other side, I come by keeping the same gap between each support
I don\'t have the welding picture for this part, I didn\'t notice this because my phone was turned off, so I keep working.
For the cnc plug-in, I have some spare parts from my door build project that are 5 \"wide in width.
I cut them into the length I needed with the help of the oblique saw 16 \"length and tested them by inserting them into the post.
The size of using them as plug-ins is very accurate.
After that, I polished the parts into a sand track Sander of up to 120 and prepared them for processing.
Then I made a fixture on my cnc table so I can keep my job without any fasteners.
After that, I started working on those wooden plugins with the help of v bit.
I carved some different designs on each insert.
Since I am a huge fan of Batman, I have carved the image of Batman and Superman on one of the plugins.
My main plan is to use wood of different colors, but it is not possible to get the wood in my area, which is why I decided to go and dye.
By doing so, I was able to get the color needed for my building.
I dye each insert in a different color and then apply a clear varnish on it.
This is a big reason.
When you do resin art on wood, you will notice that a small amount of resin is absorbed by wood, if you are going to re-process
It\'s hard to do this stain.
Although I know I need
Once I fill the engraving with resin, it will get dirty again.
These plugins still look very beautiful without resin.
After the dyeing work, I covered the rest with masking tape so that the amount of sanding on the plug-in was less.
After covering with tape, I make bunds on the plug-in that will add resin of different colors.
This thing was done with the help of a glue gun.
The glue leaves the resin in its area until it is cured.
For the color, I choose dark powder of different colors to shine, I will mix it in the resin, then I add the hardening agent to the resin, remove the bubbles from the resin with the help of the blower and pour them into the engraving.
Then I sucked the resin again with a hairdryer so there would be no bubbles in it.
Do the same procedure with the remaining colored resin.
Once cured on one side, first repeat the step for the back by making bunds and then following the remaining steps.
Once everything is cured for 24 hours.
I sanded it with 60 sandpaper as there is a lot of material to remove on the plugin.
After that sand, polish it with 120 sand and then with 400 sand.
I do wet sanding after 220 sand, which will definitely increase the finish of the engraving.
After polishing, remove a lot of stains from the plugin, which is why I need to re-
But before that, I need to dry for a few hours as I wet polish them.
If I wipe the stains on the engraved design, then a small amount of color is absorbed by these designs, which is why I use earbuds to stain them in places where the engraving is very detailed.
I applied two layers of clear varnish to them.
The last one is in front of you.
For installation, I polish the inner part of the post with 60 sandpaper to make it rough so that the epoxy has some rough places to stick together.
Then I used acetone and two mixed-part epoxy.
I then apply the epoxy to the post and insert the CNC plug-in into it.
There I squeezed out some excess epoxy and wiped it with acetone.
Repeat the process with the remaining inserts.
During the turn, I installed a small benzene on it, which will definitely increase the overall beauty of the guardrail.
After that I polished the whole building with a polishing wheel and a green polishing compound to make it a mirrorlike finish.
The last building in front of you.
I am currently working on another version.
Although all the welding work has been completed, only the CNC plug-in is left.
I am trying to use different techniques for this mosaic.
So please keep an eye on this version as well.
Don\'t forget to give your feedback if you like this version, I really appreciate it.
The last building in front of you.
Don\'t forget to vote if you like this version & give your feedback, I really appreciate it.
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